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Sloping and uneven floors

Working out what is actually causing it, before anyone quotes on fixing it.

Start by describing it properly

Sloping and uneven are two different complaints and they usually have different causes.

A slope is a floor that falls consistently in one direction, often across a whole room or a whole side of the house. It generally means the supports on one side have dropped relative to the others, which points at stumps, footings or the ground.

Unevenness is a floor with dips, humps and soft spots that do not follow a single direction. That points at the floor frame itself, at individual joists or bearers, or at localised damage.

Bounce is different again, and points at joists rather than supports.

Being precise about which one you have narrows the field considerably before anyone gets under the house.

Working out how bad it is

You can do a useful first pass yourself.

  • The ball test. Place a marble or a small ball on the floor in several rooms. If it rolls the same direction consistently, you have a slope and you now know which way it falls.
  • A long level. A 1200mm spirit level tells you far more than a short one. Take readings in several places and note where the fall is steepest.
  • Doors and windows. Which ones stick, and whether they stick at the top, the bottom or one side. That indicates the direction of racking.
  • Skirting gaps. Where the skirting has separated from the floor, and whether the gap changes with the seasons.
  • Cracks. Location, direction and width. Diagonal cracks out from door and window corners indicate structural movement rather than shrinkage.
  • Photograph and date it. If you are unsure whether it is getting worse, marking and dating a crack is the cheapest monitoring there is.
Whether it is still moving matters more than how far out it currently is. A house that settled thirty years ago and stopped is a different proposition to one that has dropped 20mm since last winter.
Spirit level resting on polished hardwood floorboards in the hallway of an older Queensland home with the bubble sitting off centre
A long level in several rooms builds a picture a short one cannot

The likely causes

Failed stumps

The most common cause under an older raised timber house. Hardwood stumps rot from the base and get eaten by termites, and as they lose height or fail entirely the floor above follows them. Usually shows as a slope, often worst near a corner or wherever the ground stays wettest.

Ground movement

Reactive clay through the hinterland and the western suburbs swells and shrinks seasonally. Poorly compacted fill near the coast consolidates over time. Both move the supports without the supports themselves being defective. Typically produces slow, seasonal, sometimes reversing movement.

Water

A downpipe discharging beside a footing, ground falling toward the house, a leaking service under the floor, or a blocked subfloor vent. Water is behind a very large share of what gets diagnosed as a structural problem, and it is often the cheapest thing to fix.

Floor frame problems

Undersized or over spanned joists, joists notched too deeply for pipes and cables, rot near wet areas, and termite damage. Produces bounce and localised dips rather than a consistent slope.

Footing or slab movement

On slab and strip footing houses there are no stumps to blame. Movement is in the ground under the footing, and the remedy is underpinning designed by an engineer rather than anything done above ground.

The house was built that way

Worth including, because it is more common than people expect on older homes. Some floors have a small consistent fall that has been there since construction and has never changed. Levels alone do not tell you this. History and evidence of movement do.

What a proper diagnosis involves

  1. Floor levels taken through the whole house, not one room, so the shape of the movement is mapped
  2. Every support probed and checked for plumb
  3. Bearers, joists, ant caps and fixings inspected
  4. The subfloor ground checked for damp, standing water and ventilation
  5. The outside checked, particularly where stormwater goes and how the ground falls
  6. Cracking recorded, including direction and width
  7. Where movement may be ongoing, monitoring over a period rather than a single visit

Only after that does a scope make sense. A contractor who quotes a fix without doing most of that is quoting a guess, and the guess is usually the most expensive option they offer.

Doing nothing is sometimes correct

Not every out of level floor needs work. If the movement is historic, small, stable and not causing damage, the sensible response can be to monitor it and spend the money elsewhere. Older timber houses are not flat and were never expected to be.

What changes that calculation is any of the following: movement that is clearly ongoing, cracking that is getting worse, doors and windows that no longer function, an imminent sale where a building and pest report is going to raise it anyway, or a renovation that will put tiles or fixed cabinetry onto a floor that is still moving.

That last one matters. Tiling or fitting out over a floor that has not stabilised is how a modest problem becomes an expensive one.

Questions

Common questions

How much slope is too much?

There is no single number that applies to every house. What matters more is whether it is stable, whether it is causing damage, and whether it is affecting how the house functions. A small historic fall that has not changed in decades is a characteristic. A fall that has appeared or worsened recently is a problem.

How do I tell if my floor is still moving?

Mark and date the ends of a crack, photograph it, and check it in a few months across a change of season. Repeat level readings at the same points over time are better still. Movement that reverses with the seasons points at ground moisture rather than progressive failure.

Is a sloping floor dangerous?

Usually not in itself. The risk is what it indicates about what is happening underneath, and about damage accumulating elsewhere in the structure. A floor that is visibly dropping, accompanied by widening cracks and doors that will not close, warrants prompt assessment.

Why is only one part of my floor sloping?

Localised causes. One corner where a downpipe discharges, a wetter section of ground, a run of stumps that failed together, or an extension built on different footings to the original house. The pattern of the levels usually points straight at it.

Can I just level the floor with self levelling compound?

Only for very minor surface unevenness, and only once the structure underneath is stable. Pouring compound over a floor that is still moving adds weight, hides the evidence and does not last. Fix the cause first.

Should I fix it before selling?

It depends on the extent and on your market. A building and pest report will very likely raise it, and buyers tend to discount an unknown by more than the actual cost of the work. Having a scope and a written quote in hand is often more useful than either ignoring it or completing the work.

My house is on a slab and the floor is uneven. Is that restumping?

No. A slab has no stumps. Uneven floors on a slab point at movement in the ground under the footing, which is an underpinning question and needs engineering input, or at the floor covering rather than the structure.

Can I renovate over a sloping floor?

Not sensibly until it is stable. Tiles, stone and fixed cabinetry have almost no ability to accommodate movement, so installing them over a floor that is still moving is how a modest structural problem turns into an expensive finishing one.

Next step

Tell us what the house is doing

Describe the symptoms and the suburb and you will get a straight answer about whether it sounds like stumps, and what an inspection would involve.

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